Brazil's Coffee History Blooms
in Minas Gerais

Brazil, synonymous with vibrant Carnival celebrations, rhythmic samba beats, and of course, it’s the world's leading coffee producer. It is also the origin for the biggest proportion of our Bells blend. Within this vast coffee landscape, Minas Gerais reigns supreme, a state steeped in coffee history and renowned for its exceptional beans. And as we have just begun a relationship with a new importer based in the Minas Gerais region for Bells, we delve into the captivating world of coffee production in Brazil, with a particular focus on the unique characteristics and charm of Minas Gerais.

A Coffee Legacy Brewed over Centuries

Coffee's arrival in Brazil dates back to the late 17th century. Legend has it that a Portuguese-Brazilian military officer named Palheta was sent on a diplomatic mission to French Guiana, a neighbouring colony, to settle a border dispute. The French were fiercely protective of their coffee plants, prohibiting the export of viable seeds. Palheta, aware of the potential for coffee in Brazil, charmed the French governor's wife and as a parting gift, she is said to have presented him with a bouquet containing a strategically placed coffee seedling, which eventually became the foundation for Brazil's thriving coffee industry.

While the use of charm might be exaggerated, historical records confirm that Palheta did manage to bring back coffee seeds or plants from French Guiana, marking a pivotal moment in Brazil's coffee journey.

Initially, cultivation was concentrated in the state of Rio de Janeiro. However, by the 18th century, coffee growing had flourished in Minas Gerais, fuelled by the state's ideal climate and fertile soil. The discovery of gold in Minas Gerais during the same period further propelled coffee production. Wealthy landowners saw coffee as a lucrative alternative to gold mining, and soon, rolling hills transformed into lush coffee plantations.

The 19th century witnessed a surge in coffee production in Minas Gerais. The introduction of new processing techniques and efficient transportation infrastructure further solidified the state's position as a coffee powerhouse. This period also saw the emergence of the "colonisation companies," which played a pivotal role in attracting European immigrants and skilled labour to work on the coffee farms.

The 20th century brought its share of challenges. Coffee leaf rust, a devastating fungal disease, ravaged Brazilian coffee crops in the 1970s. This setback, coupled with fluctuating global coffee prices, forced many producers to diversify their crops. However, Minas Gerais remained resilient, with many farmers adapting their practices and embracing sustainable methods.

Over the centuries, coffee production became deeply woven into the cultural fabric of Minas Gerais. Family-owned farms, known as fazendas, dotted the landscape, each contributing to the state's rich coffee heritage. Traditional processing methods were honed, and a deep understanding of the land and its impact on coffee quality developed. Today, Minas Gerais remains a vital player in Brazil's coffee industry, contributing nearly half of the nation's total coffee production.

Beyond Quantity: The Allure of Minas Gerais Coffee

While Brazil is known for its high volume coffee production, Minas Gerais prioritises quality over sheer quantity. Unlike some other coffee-growing regions in Brazil that cultivate Robusta beans, Minas Gerais is primarily dedicated to Arabica coffee which thrives in the state's cool, mountainous climate.

The unique microclimates, particularly in the Sul de Minas region, create a perfect storm for cultivating exceptional coffee beans. High altitudes, ranging from 1,300 to 1,400 metres above sea level, result in slow and controlled maturation of the coffee cherries. This slow ripening allows the beans to develop complex flavour profiles, characterised by bright acidity, delicate sweetness, and notes of citrus and stone fruits. The distinct terroir of Minas Gerais plays a crucial role in shaping these unique flavour characteristics.

The focus on quality extends beyond the natural advantages of the region. Many coffee farms in Minas Gerais have embraced sustainable practices. These practices include organic farming methods, water conservation techniques, and fair trade initiatives that ensure fair compensation for coffee farmers. This commitment to sustainability not only benefits the environment but also contributes to the exceptional quality and ethical sourcing of Minas Gerais coffee.

Farmhouse, the exporter we source Brazilian greens from for our Bells blend, is based in Minas Gerais. This exporter works with around 200 small-hold farmers in Trés Corações, Sul de Minas, where the hot and humid climate is perfect for growing coffee. The coffee is grown around 900 MASL which means it is well-balanced and brings plenty of nutty and chocolate flavours that work well for espressos as well as other brewing methods.

The exporter works very closely with all the farmers in its network to improve the quality of the greens. This is so the farmers can access the specialty coffee markets around the world and therefore get paid better for their beans. Farmhouse’s mission is to de-commoditise the way coffee is traded, starting with their home country and largest producing origin – Brazil. This means that we generate greater impact at origin through direct relationships with the producer network for full transparency and traceability.

The Challenges and the Future

Despite its rich history and undeniable potential, coffee production in Minas Gerais faces challenges. Like the rest of the coffee producing regions, climate change poses a significant threat, with rising temperatures and unpredictable rainfall patterns which impacts crop yields and coffee quality. Farmers are adapting by planting more resilient coffee varietals and implementing sustainable water management practices.

Another challenge lies in maintaining a skilled workforce. The younger generations are often drawn to opportunities in the big cities, leaving a potential labour shortage in the future. We are seeing that initiatives promoting the economic benefits and cultural significance of coffee farming are crucial to attract and retain skilled workers in rural areas.

However, looking ahead, the future of coffee production in Minas Gerais is promising. The growing global appreciation for specialty coffee bodes well for the region's high-quality Arabica beans. Continued investment in sustainable practices, coupled with technological advancements in processing and roasting, will further elevate the reputation of Minas Gerais coffee.

There are some exciting trends shaping the future of coffee in Minas Gerais:

• Focus on Sustainability: Many farms are adopting organic and biodynamic practices, ensuring long-term soil health and environmental protection.
• Traceability and Transparency: Consumers are increasingly interested in the origin and story behind their coffee. Minas Gerais producers are embracing direct trade and implementing technology to provide transparent information about their coffee.
• Innovation in Processing: Experimentation with fermentation techniques and drying methods is on the rise, leading to a wider spectrum of flavour profiles.

Brazil's coffee story is a remarkable one, and Minas Gerais stands as a shining chapter. From its historical significance to its focus on quality and sustainability, the region offers a compelling case for the future of coffee.

If you want to learn more about our range of coffees, you can find them here. And you can discover a very different origin in this article about coffee production in Rwanda.